Phnom Penh, Cambodia Day 3

Tuk Tuk experience with Chan. All day.

There are Tuk Tuk drivers all over this town. Most tuk tuks are some adaption of a motorbike made to carry multiple people. We have seen some really creative contraptions. The ones here in Cambodia are a carriage that mounts to the back of the motorbike with a ball hitch device where the passenger on the motorbike would sit. They take a 100cc engine motorbike, mount this huge heavy thing on the back, load it up with people and bags, and it somehow still goes forward. Many of them have external water bottles that pump water over the top of the engine for some extra cooling. I thought they were reserve fuel tanks, but looked closely to see their real purpose.

There are Tuk Tuks and there are the drivers that go with them. Most have their own gimmick that goes with their rig. You might see this with the paint job, the advertising, their clothing, and for sure the way that they call to you. Everyone needs work, and being persistent will get you the money.

We had a great time with Rambo two days ago. Don't get me wrong. But, when we came back to the hotel, there was another guy that wanted to take us to the mountain. We thought that would be too far, so we decided on a tour around the town. I shook his hand and said we will have you for a whole day. I linked a few sights together and made a plan.

Breakfast was at the hotel. Right on time, Chan came up front to get us. Little did I know that we were going to get an inside peek of Cambodia, and the full story of a local, that drives a Tuk Tuk.

Chan is a driver that is dressed well, speaks English very well, and sports a messenger bag with an iPad. He profusely thanked us for not ditching him, and hiring him for the entire day as well. We headed off. The first stop was the Wat Phnom. We took a few pictures and looked at the museum for a bit. Chan just chilled out on the side street with the other Tuk Tuks.

Next, he drove us by the American Embassy. It might be the biggest and most fortified one in Cambodia. But, most embassies are like that. It isn't really the place to get out and shoot pictures. It was nice to see a giant American flag out in the breeze.

Chan mentioned that there are a lot of imitation crafts at the Central Market. So, he took us to a first class art and sculpture shop. We wanted to just go to the market, but he wanted us to see the real nice things first, and then look at the others. This was a great idea. The place had such beautiful works. There was mostly jewelry and sculptures, but they are a fair trade shop and sell certified items made by Cambodians. It is great to see these places popping up. People want them, and don't mind paying a little more for authentic crafts.

I asked Chan if he knew of a nice place to eat. We wanted something that he would like and find special. He said there was a place 15k out of town along the river that served river fish. That sounded perfect, but I was a little leery traveling far in a Tuk Tuk on crazy dusty roads. Once again, we got the polite talk questioning our tastes. He said a lot of travelers are picky and he did not want us to get into an uncomfortable situation. I love to give the reply, "I like food." Some people get it, but most do not. He replied, "I like food too."

The restaurant sits along the Mekong with each table being a little perch on stilts with a thatch roof. Chan said that when the river floods, it is quite nice. The place is safe and they always know when the river will be high. In a few more months it will get to that level.

The fish was great, but the best part of the meal was talking with Chan. He is the result of his own hard work and help from a foreign aid group. His help has come from a guy in Texas with an NGO. Chan told us how this whole operation works in detail, but I will probably mess it up a little. He said it started about 10 years ago. Chan was hired by the man from Texas to drive him on the back of his motorbike for a couple days. They got to know each other, and the man offered to help pay for a tuk tuk so Chan could earn more money, and to fund a University degree. The group gave him opportunities he never had growing up very poor in the countryside. Chan has 2 years under his belt for his degree in English and has 2 more left to go. He wants to teach someday and right now he is making ends meet with the Tuk Tuk business. So, as long as he stays in school, the group is helping him too. He is truly thankful. That was obvious! So, the iPad. You don't really see them in Cambodia, but it made sense when he told us about it. It was a gift from the group and is how he communicates with his sponsor and takes pictures. What a great idea! He would be on the Internet at our hotel in the evenings working on school work or corresponding with his sponsor.

We talked for a very long time, some topics I would rather keep to myself. I will tell you this, it became a lot more than a foreigner taking a ride in a Tuk Tuk. The three of us became closer as humans conversing about life issues and eating a fish together.

From there, we headed back to town. Traffic was really congested on the bridge that crosses back into town. People we along the sidewalk looking over the edge. I thought, this can't be good and I don't want to be in the middle of some madness. Chan asked some of the locals what was happening as we slowly passed. He whipped his head around to tell us that someone jumped off the bridge to kill himself. Man! I thought we had seen everything, but now this? After our discussions at lunch that were very uplifting, this was just a kick in the opposite direction. I guess it's just reality.

The next stop was the Russian Market. Oh, OK just another market. We have seen them, but this one was insanely different. It had thousands of booths to walk past. I am pretty sure about the numbers, since they were all numbered on the outsides. Everything was sold here! My favorite was the motorbike section. They had every part imaginable, new or used. Right next to that was the hardware section. Seriously, Home Depot, you are taking us all for a ride! This place was immensely better. I mentioned to Katherine that if my bro Richard and I had to make a stop here for something, we would be inside all day. We have a hard enough time getting sidetracked in Home Depot.

It was now time for dinner, so we asked Chan where to go. He recommended a local BBQ joint that cooked the cows the same day that they were slaughtered. How could we say no? He was spot on. This place rocked! While in the restroom, I peeked out the window to see the beast being cooked on a rotisserie out back. Out front was another grill for cooking smaller parts of the animals. It was amazing!

At this point, we understood each other fairly well, so I wanted to discuss some more touchy subjects about Cambodia. I wanted his take on the evening events as well as the people participating. Oh, he filled us in on the matter! Things are going down that boggle my mind. The noise at night goes on until 5am and then gets rolling again by 7am. This place never sleeps. Tourists looking to do things that are not allowed in their country do them here. No, it's not legal, but very difficult to catch. We did agree that the country is gaining strength for the people and international aid, but the underbelly needs to stay clean and not get any dirtier. People need money, and will do about anything to get it. Chan is doing the right thing, and the right thing is difficult at times.

The evening was spent on the VAT porch. VAT is just an inside joke with Katherine's brother Andrew, meaning "nice balcony with a view." We are extremely lucky to have such a VAT porch, and we feel guilty not taking advantage of it.

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Phnom Penh and take the minibus to Siem Reap. Phnom Penh will always be a special place. I think that in 15 years, if things keep on track, it might be unrecognizable. We are on the brink of so much positive change.

 

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