31-07-2016 Haute Route Day 7
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Rest Day in Arolla
Today we slept in, did laundry, ate, shopped, and rested more for the following day’s hike. Our legs were really tired and rest was just what the doctor ordered. We sampled some interesting chocolate from the grocery store and a few rain clouds passed over. We all needed a day off and enjoyed every moment of the nothing we did. Tomorrow’s hike is no easy matter as we have to gain altitude, cross over the Col du Forclaz and then ascend again to make our way to the best hut on the trek: Cabane de Moiry. The hut is situated high on a perch overlooking a giant ice fall at 2800 meters. Rest up!
Ibex "European Mount" in the hotel restaurant
One of the fighting cowbells on display in the restaurant. We later found out that they can cost around $800-$1200. Wow!
01-08-2016 Haute Route Day 8
Arolla to Cabane de Moiry (omitted the walking stage from Arolla to La Sage)
10.7 Kilometers
Click on the link above and download it to your computer. Then, open Google Earth and manually open and you can see the trail in 3D.
Forclaz to Cabane de Moiry
Today’s trek included a little help from a vehicle. We did not realize August 1st is Suisse independence day, and all the lodging in La Sage was booked when we called 3 days before. The only place with room required a 2 night stay and wanted to charge a ton of cash. Since we were unable to find lodging in Le Sage we stayed 2 nights in Arolla, allowing us a much needed rest day yesterday, and bypassed the walk from Arolla to La Sage. We began hiking a little past Le Sable in the village of Forclaz. Our hotel owner lady (I didn’t get her name) drove us to the trailhead. The entire time she talked with Anne and Tomas about the history of the area. She even took us past our destination to show us a little more than we expected about the buildings and give us some information about her childhood. I knew for sure that these mountains influence people in many ways, and she was telling us all about it.
Once we departed, the hike started off steep and wet. We were in a cloud most of the time and we kept wondering if we were going to need our rain gear or not. Luckily, the rain only threatened as we kept heading uphill towards the col.
Anne and Thomas navigating through the cows.
Quickly, we arose out of the treelike and were in a stand off with cows. No surprise, these were the familiar bell toting, behemoth, swiss gems. They were right in the trail! So, we nicely walked around them and went on our way. They never really bother you, but some have pungent smells.
The entire morning we saw a false summit. It is always discouraging to think you are almost at your goal only to see you have more to climb. We tried to keep our spirits high when we crested the fake col and kept trudging.
After reaching the Col du Tsate, we had a bite to eat in the wind shelter of rock. Still looking for edelweiss, we continued down the trail towards the Lac de la Bayenna, which was small and filled with fresh snowmelt. Yes, another time to fill up our water bladders.
Katherine descending from the col.
Our first good look at the icefall.
Once we started our descent we could see the lake of the Moiry Glacier, and WAYYYY up hill was the Cabane de Moiry looking at us and grinning! We had to descend to the lake, and then gain all the altitude again heading right for the cabin. This is a place where day trekkers can park or take the bus to start a wonderful day trek. That means, lots of fresh hikers with strong legs on the train while beat up dudes like us slowly trudge by. Kids, dogs, and people of all ages were on the trail.
Katherine making the trek across the snowfield.
The whole hike up, I was thinking about how cool this cabin must be. I had seen pictures, but it is worth so much more to get a glimpse in person when you have “earned the view.” Taking the last switchback, of what seemed like 1,000, we made it to the cabin. The crumbling ice field was in view and quite a massive glacier. This was totally worth it. Anne and Tomas came up behind and basked in the view.
Thomas coming up the grueling ascent.
Our room was a comfortable group dorm of 12 beds. The 4 of us took the top bunks and laid out our gear and headed down for dinner. Dinner was served at long tables in a room with floor to ceiling glass windows looking towards the ice field. It was a great place to watch the setting sun. It doesn’t get much better than this!
Our view from the edge of the patio.
This particular cabin is a giant stepping off point for alpine mountaineers. They drive, or take the bus to the lower parking lot, make it to the cabin for the night, and then have a wonderland of climbs to set off upon. On our particular night, there were only a few climbers, but I can see this place filling up when the conditions are great. I can surely see the appeal of these huts, even though you pay for it! Food and supplies are flown in by helicopter, so the price is actually fair I guess.
This was our seat for dinner.
Tomorrow’s hike takes us back along the lake and over a col to Zinal. Anne and Thomas have to head back to Paris, so tomorrow will be our final full day together. It will be lonely on the trail without them after all the good days we have had, but when work calls, I guess you gotta go!
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