Inca Trail Day 2

The day began with a wake up at 5:15.  We had to prepare our stuff for the porters to tear down and reload.  They came by at 5:30 with coca tea and hot water to clean.   Breakfast consisted of quinoa porridge with caramel and apple.  It was amazing.





After breakfast, we were formally introduced to the porters, and we had to introduce ourselves as well.  I liked this formality, as it was respectful to the porters and to us.  Most of them live and farm in the high mountains and being a porter is their second job.  These are true mountain men.  Our youngest porter was 19 and oldest was 41.

We began the hike with a large uphill climb passing through a cloud forest with a damp cool breeze. The trees totally changed and Elias was pointing everything out for us.


One the way up the climb we ran into a strange porter asking for money and coca leaves.  He was ancient and looked really tired.  Elias said that some of the local guys operate as one day porters for people that over estimate their ability to make the big climb with their full packs.  The unofficial porters carry the bags over "Dead Woman's Pass" to the camp site and then go back home.  We were doing fine, but other hiking groups on the trail were struggling and surely could use this guy.  He told us he was 68 years old!

Jack, Dorothy, and Charles

One of the many bridges to cross the streams.

Looking back on our climb.

We kept going up and up the mountain.

This is where our training should pay off.

Cool location marker

Katherine in the cloud forest.

Then there was lunch.  Wow!  We ate right before the pass.  It consisted of: lomo saltado with chicken, a fried egg foo young type thing, lentils, rice, vegetables, and for desert was a pear dish with a sherry sauce.  How can this be camp food?  It was too good. 

Katherine at our lunch location.

Charles navigating the rocks on the original Inca stonework.

Almost at the saddle.

Katherine made it!

Once we made it to the top of the pass at 13,780 feet we saw others celebrating their huge climb.  Everyone was cheering for each other.  On one side of the pass there were clear skies, and on the other there was a gusty breeze blowing clouds over the top.  It made for a great contrast.

Here is Elias stomping the ascent to the saddle. 

The trail over the pass was the best Inca stonework we had seen.  It was perfect. 

Thomas, me, Katherine, and Charles

Once again, we got to camp to see tents set up and could smell dinner cooking.  The porters had busted some serious booty to climb up to this site.  The view was looking down the valley with another large snow covered mountain in the background.  Everyone in the group except Katherine was feeling the effects of the high altitude with headaches.  We were all happy to eat a great meal and go to bed early.

Elias trying to artfully photo-bomb.  Nicely done.

Tomorrow, we will have a short ascent to some ruins and then a brutal downhill.  Rest up!

Inca Trail, Day 1

Today was an exciting day to wake up early.  It was our first of four days on the famous Inca Trail.  Our trip will take us over mountain passes, through Incan ruins, cloud forests, and finally end at Machu Picchu.  We had no idea what we were in for.  

All travel and logistics were arranged through SAS Travel in Cusco, Peru.  

We woke up at 4:15, took a quick shower as it would be our last for days, and walked the few blocks to SAS travel.  There were eight of us that boarded the mini bus.  Our group had four, and there were Jack and Dorothy from Canada, and Jen and Barry from St. Louis.  

The ride was cold traveling to over 12,000 ft on the road.  After 1.5 hours we stopped for breakfast in a small village.  We all talked about what was to come and the excitement was running high.

After breakfast, we headed to a small plaza in Ollantaytambo to pick up a few porters.  These guys would be with us for the full four days setting up tents, preparing food, and even carrying a small duffel bag of our gear.  Then, we set off for the actual trailhead.  

All gear was laid out and the porters packed their bags.  This valley is stunning!

SAS Travel was one of the many groups traveling on the trail today.  Permits have to be obtained about 6 months in advance for high season.  A total of 500 people are allowed to begin the trail per day.  Usually about 200 are trekkers and the remaining 300 are porters and guides.

Our guide Elias took this shot of our group.

Jack, Dorothy, Barry, Jen, Charles, Thomas, Katherine, and ME.

This is the train that will take us back to town after the trek.  The surrounding mountains are huge!

We stamped our passports after checking in with the trail boss.

Crossing the bridge officially started our hike.

Amazing!

Our first large set of ruins marking the entrance to the valley. 

Elias, our guide, informed us on many things throughout the hike.  He was constantly telling us about the Incan history and the Pre-Incan history.  Also, he pointed out the flora many times which was very interesting since it is a little different than what we are used to in Las Vegas.  

Elias called the first day our "warm up" day.  Our pace was comfortable and slow and the terrain was rolling without steep ups or downs, which was good since we have a huge climbing day tomorrow.  The temperatures were perfect and I was not even working up a sweat.  I can't think of a better day to be out hiking. 

Charles and Katherine on a descent. 

We were amazed at this first lunch meal.  The porters set up a lunch tent and the chefs created a multi-plate masterpiece.  This is how all lunches would be prepared as we would soon find out.  All lunches and dinners began with soup, and then 4 or 5 main dishes were brought out followed by a small dessert.  .

Lunch

Lunch today consisted of: River trout ceviche as a amuse bouche, pumpkin soup bought from the garden at our breakfast stop, avocado salad, bread, salad with eggs and tomatoes, river trout with tomato onion sauce, giant corn kernels, rice, and bananas with caramel for desert. 

We were given an orange drink and water.  Both were warm.  It was a little weird drinking warm liquids, but they had to boil them to be sure they were safe to drink.  

I was comparing the elevation profile to my Garmin watch.  Pretty rough. 

There were many views just like this. 

Our crew.

After lunch, we only had a 1.5 hour hike to the final campsite for the night.  We had full bellies, but the calories would be needed for the long hike tomorrow.  As we arrived, the porters had already set up the camp and were working on dinner.  Before dinner, we washed up and then had tea time.  That meant more time to chat with Elias and the hiking crew.  Fresh coca tea, popcorn, and cookies were out on the table.  How cool!

I found it really strange to have a camp set up by someone else.  Normally, that is a big chore for us.  This is true luxury camping.   The porters even came by our tents with warm water for us to wash up with before eating.  This particular camp had a local who offered hot showers for 10 Soles.  Dorothy decided to partake and told us about how wonderful she felt during dinner.  We were all a bit jealous.

Mr. Machu Picchu himself!

Barry, Elias, and Tommy at tea time. 

Then, there was dinner!

Dinner consisted of:  chicken soup, cauliflower with sauce, chicken and potatoes with cream sauce, rice, and vegetables.  Every dish was created to perfection by Chef Julio.  He is somehow able to whip this stuff up in a nearby tent with a propane stove for all 9 of us.  I have no idea how.  The planning was so great, every plate that came out was hot and tasty. The food is also presented in a fancy way.

We hung out with Elias for a while after eating.  He had even more information to share about the area and his life.  I found it funny that he even knew Carlito and Jean from Carlito's tours in Arequipa.  I guess it's a tight knit trekking world out here in Peru. 

The stars were out in full glory and the southern cross was visible once again.  My green safety laser is really cool to point at the stars and with the help of Elias, we were able to recognize a few constellations. 

Laying in bed I noticed something...  I could only hear the sound of the river below and no airplanes.  There was also no light pollution. This place is truly serene!